La Lettre de La Cagouille de Gérard Allemandou

Version Française

A-propos

A trip to VINEXPO 1997, Bordeaux, France

The Atmosphere

In June, Bordeaux becomes so hot that it is practically impossible to participate in the tasting sessions. This year, the end of Spring fortunately turned out to be stormy and windy, so the weather was more pleasant than usual to accomplish this marathon. Nevertheless, the date is still a bad choice. 2200 exhibitors were spread over two halls and two "tent villages". Very dense. The alleys were scarcely large enough for the crowd of visitors. Yet, everything was well organized, no waiting lines and the environmental decor was a success.

Cognac

I had to go through the whole exhibition to find Cognac exhibitors. They were scattered all over the place without any clear indication In spite of a few stands that gathered under the same aegis, this general dispersal did not help in conceiving a general view of things. I was mainly struck by the absence of the big ones, such as Hennessy, Courvoisier, Camus, Otard. When present, they were discreetly shown in groupings such as Rémy Martin in Rémy Distribution and Martell in the "Club des Marques" through Seagram.

Do big names reject VINEXPO? Or do they consider they have no need for it? I find this surprising: I do not particularly appreciate this type of events; they are more business oriented than meant to promote the products and their qualities, but I understand a foreign purchaser can end up being confusingly disappointed when not finding the above products in Bordeaux.

The Tendencies

This exhibition expected to receive a massive arrival of vintages but on the other hand, one can understand their absence. This goes against the majors' and BNIC official doctrine that says the blending denominations determined through tradition and usage are the only ones worthwhile.

Boutinet, Croizet, Delamain, Godet, Lhèraud, Gourmel, Phillipon, Château de Beaulon etc.... show vintage bottles, most dating back to 60s and 70s, and all of them under the control of BNIC, of course, even though the latter refuse to have it mentioned on the label.This is another incoherence specific to the region.. I will do my best to report on tasting sessions of these products in my coming letters.

I also noted a larger presence of Cognac producers who grouped together under different "banners": Symphonie des Terroirs de Cognac, Maison de Grande Champagne in collaboration with the Segonzac Eaux de Vie University.

The Enjoyment

I shared my meal with my son, between the main hall and the lake. The Tupina had installed an annex for the exhibition, in a canvas structure cooled down by the lake breeze.The meal was simple and of good quality, nothing eccentric, and the Medoc was remarkable. It was a very fine 1990 Haut de Caussan. Our food was "terrine de joue de boeuf, pièce de blonde d'aquitaine et frites maison, glace au raisin" (a beef cheek pâté, a piece of Acquitaine Blonde* with home made French fries, a grape ice cream.) This was a great change from the low quality cooking one finds in this kind of events. Yet I was hardly suprised by the long waiting lines I could see in front of the stalls selling sandwiches. The wine business people have no sense of pleasure. They sell marketing and packaging, eat sandwiches and probably drink water.

* The Blonde Acquitaine is a bread of cattle. It is internationally renowned for the quality of its meat.

List of producers present at VINEXPO 1997:

AE DOR, ADET SEWAD,BLANCHEREAU, BOUTINET, BOURON, BOVEN, CHABASSE, BRILLET, BRU ( DISTILLERIE DES MOISANS), CGC ( MEUKOW, BRUGUEROLLE ),CGEVF, PLANAT , CHARPENTRON , CHATEAU DE MONTIFAUD, CHATEAU DE DIDONNE, CHATEAU PAULET, COMBEAU, COUPRIE, CROIZET EYMARD, DELAMAIN, DELPECH FOUGERAT, DRILLAUD, DROUET, DUPUY BACHE GABRIELSEN, FERRAND, FOURCADE, FONTPINOT, FRANSAC, FRAPIN, GABRIEL ET ANDREU, GAUTRET, GAUTIER, GIRAUD, GODET, GOURMEL, GOUSSELAND, GRAND MARNIER, GUERBE, HARDY, HENT, JULLIARD, JULLIEN, LAFRAGETTE, LANDREAU, LARSEN, MAINE DRILHON, MARELL, MARTELL, MENARD, MENUET, MOTARD, PASQUET, PEYROT, PHILIPPON, PRUNIER, RAGNAUD SABOURIN, RAYMOND RAGNAUD, REMY MARTIN, ROUSSILLE, ROULLET, TALLEFORT, THORIN, VALLAEYS, VINET

Coup de Coeur - Dégustation

A de Fussigny A Cigare Blend Special Réserve - 40° "Cigare"!

Alain Royer reveals his latest product which he studied and conceived to come in harmony with cigar smoking. I must say that, in spite of the traditional image, Cognacs do not necessarily get along with "puro" that well. Nowadays, we must be very cautious with the large number of aromas found in Havana quality products or elsewhere. I used to be a smoker and I still think one must react differently according to each case and one's own sense of pleasure.In the end, the smoker must decide what is the best for himself.

The deeply pronounced color seems to be the announcement for the strength necessary to the balance of the cigar's aromas. The nose reacts immediately, it is slightly pungent but probably mellows down with smoke and time. The mouth finds the same aromas, covering the palate deeply and remaining strongly with time.

I did not smoke a cigar again, but from the memories I have I think their "marriage" can be a particularly happy one. This product of quality with this new presentation can expect a great success.

A de Fussigny A Cigare Blend Special Réserve - 40°

DOMAINE P. FRAPIN

Château de Fontipinot Grande Champagne Très Vieille Reserve du Château 40°

Un château

Béatrice Cointreau is in charge of the destiny of the Frapin Vineyards. She accomplishes her task with great success for this Grande Champagne, the Château de Fontipinot belongs to.

Its honey color seems rich and supple, just like the nose. This Cognac is very well conceived and shows a touch of youth slightly tinted with mint. Then the Grande Champagne soft rancio comes up. A change occurred: elder flower and dry vine shoot serenely comes through. The mouth is soft not heavy, it is full of subtlety and fineness with, nevertheless, a slight touch of strength. A balance is installed between a nose that slightly draws back and a harmonious mouth. Frapin comes back on the front scene with this Cognac of great conception.

Château de Fontipinot Grande Champagne Très Vieille Reserve du Château 40°

JEAN DUBINY Vieux Cognac 45° Rustique

I have been tasting Monsieur Jean Dubiny's old Cognac for years. Today, he has retired. Each cask is different. This one is not part of the best but it still holds the essential rustic qualities of a winegrower's "Borderies".

The very instant one can feel the strength of natural reduction. A serene power that strikes almost violently before it cools down with time and allows the fruity rancio to bloom. As with all the other Cognacs one must let time do its work. It must be used to the glass, the air must erase the strength and develop aromas that will come floating and fill up the surrounding space. A mixture of old leather, rancio, stamp wax, intense fruit specific to the "Borderies", it is almost heavy, not as wide in mouth but more vivid. The second time it fills up the mouth, covers the palate with the blanket of a peacock tail. Time no longer counts, the flavors hold on, mix within each other, come alive. It is a great pleasure. It has a rustic peasant touch in its most flavorful virtue.

Jean Dubiny Vieux Cognac 45°

For your file:

Domaine P. Frapin rue Pierre Frapin, 16130 Segonzac

Phone: (+33) 05 45 83 40 03 Fax: (+33) 05 45 83 33 67 Telex: 791493

Cognac A. de Fussigny 60 rue Moulins, 16200 Jarnac

Phone: (+33) 05 45 36 42 60 Fax: (+33) 05 45 36 42 61

G.I.E. Dubiny Pouvet, 17770 Burie

Phone: (+33) 05 46 94 91 78 Fax: (+33) 05 46 94 99 69