| Volume
1 Issue 1 |
Philippe Ponasse' notes from Charente region ... |
February 2000 | ||
| Intro ¤ A word about Philippe Notes
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A Brief Tour
Of Charente Maritime
For more than 400 years the legend of Pineau des Charentes continues, and as the saying goes - Pineau is not just the fruit of the vine but also the fruit of chance. The Pineau des Charentes is today the number one Vins de Liqueur AOC in France. It also represents an important economic asset for the two departments of production - Charente and Charente Maritime. Unfortunately it is still confined to the South West of France. Considered a regional drink, it is largely unheard of internationally. THE LEGEND - The origins of Pineau des Charentes are said to have been found in a mishap. As the legend would have it, around 1589 in the region of Burie, in Charente Maritime, a wine grower inadvertently spilled fresh grape juice into a barrel containing the eau-de-vie of Cognac. Upset by his clumsiness he put the barrel aside in a corner where it stayed in-cognito. It was not until several years had passed that curiosity got the better of him. To his surprise the taste was sweet and fruity. And so it's said that Pineau des Charentes was born. THE TRADITION - For a longtime Pineau des Charentes has stayed within the confines of the wine grower's circle. It was consumed in family gatherings, at marriages, and at anniversaries. Since then, Pineau has made its way onto most tables in the two Charentes, and has been making inroads nationally. Served chilled as an apéritif, or with foie gras, but also as an excellent accompaniment to a desert, it is even found in many recipes. EVERYTHING STARTS WITH THE SOIL! - The vineyard is an inseparable element in the Charente landscape since Gallo-Roman times. The zone of production for Pineau is roughly the same as that for Cognac. Several climatic conditions favor Pineau and Cognac production in the two Charentes : calcareous or limestone rich soil, a temperate climate with oceanic winds, and abundant sunlight, all of which exert an influence on the maturity of the grapes. THE RECIPE - Pineau des Charentes is made from the marriage of fresh grapes and old Cognac, all of which takes place in oak barrels. A little more precisely, it is the coming together of 3 quarts of fresh raisin juice and 1 quart of the old eau-de-vie of Cognac. The juice of the raisin must contain a minimum of 170 g of sugar per liter; or 10% in alcohol. THE TWO PINEAUX - There is not just one Pineau but two Pineaux des Charentes : the Pineau Blanc and the Pineau Rouge or Rosé. The Pineau Blanc comes from the white grapes of Ugni Blanc, Folle-Blanche, Colombard and Sémillon (considered unprofitable under its own name, it is usually mixed with and found under the label of Sauvignon). The Pineau Rouge is fruitier owing its consistency to such red grapes as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Merlot. Pineau des Charentes is an integral part to being traditionally Charentais. However, to understand what is Pineau take a tour through the two Charentes. It is here that the union of the liqueur and the land can better help ferment your ideas. The following (second) installment I hope will do just that. We will travel down the stretch of coast that is Charente Maritime and also visit its islands… starting with La Rochelle. 
When tasting Pineau take the time to visit the sights of Charente Maritime. While lesser known for its Cognac and Pineau production than its inland brother - Charente, Charente Maritime is a jewel to be discovered. Still untapped by excessive commercialization from tourism, Charente Maritime, and to a larger extent the South West, goes unnoticed by the average foreign tourist and by many French themselves. In the north of Charente-Maritime is the Parc Régional du Marais Poitevin. This ancient marshland was conquered by man in the Middle Ages, and transformed into manageable pastures and. Rent a boat and wander through the myriad of canals and you will see why this park is also called the - "Venise Verte" of France. Nearby, is Esnandes, an old fishing village where the inhabitants today occupy themselves with Ostreiculture (Oyster farming) and most of all Mytiliculture (Mussel farming) as they did centuries ago. A museum of Mytiliculture shows modern and traditional techniques in the raising of mussels. The church of Saint-Martin d'Esnandes was transformed by the 100 Years War into a veritable military structure, from its reinforced walls, to its system of breeches. It even has a mote. Further to the south is La Rochelle. Founded in the Xl century, the city developed rapidly thanks to the Dukes of Aquitaine who created a bustling port for the commerce of wine and salt. La Rochelle also became a port of entry for new ideas; especially for the Reform. The city became a bastion for Calvinism during the Religious Wars. The Edict of Nantes, under Henri lV, accorded liberty to the new Protestantism. However, with the death of the king and the political absolutism of Louis Xlll and Cardinal Richelieu, the city was put under siege in 1628. Only when faced with the cruel hardships of famine, did the city lay down its arms. Led by its mayor Jean Guiton, the city endured 416 days of siege. Quickly thereafter, however, the city found new life with the Age of Exploration. The opening up of the New World - Canada, the Mississippi basin, the Caribbean, and India, gave great prosperity to the city. However, with the treaty of Paris in 1763 and as a consequence the loss of many overseas colonies, La Rochelle was forced to find commercial alternatives in order to stay alive. Fishing became the important industry and measures were taken to improve its competitive standing such as the building of the port of La Pallice in 1890. La Rochelle is now a prestigious center for pleasure craft construction, and many boating oriented events take place here such as the Grand Pavois - an international marine exhibition held every September. The 3 ports of the city bring together the past and present : the yacht basin of Les Minimes; the commercial fishing port of La Pallice and the historical Vieux Port, oriented toward tourism. La Rochelle, has as well, a cultural dynamism exemplified by its national festivals : the Francofolies, a week of francophone concerts; and the Festival du Cinéma, at least 120 hours of films to be viewed over a span of 10 days. The Vieux Port is the indisputable point of reference for all tourists. Built in the Xlll century, it is noteworthy for its two XV century towers : Saint-Nicholas, and La Chaîne, which supported a large chain that was raised to block off the entrance to the port. Separating city from port is the Grosse Horloge. Built in the Xlll century, you had to go under it to get to the city. La Rochelle is one of the very few cities in France that still possesses arcades bordering the sidewalks; permitting shoppers to go about their visit unimpinged by the weather. The variety of its buildings are a testament to the city's mercantile richness : the Cathedral Saint-Louis (XVlll century), the Gothic towers of Saint-Barthélemy and Saint-Sauveur, and the Renaissance dressing of the mayoral palace - Hôtel de Ville. The museums add to the cultural wealth. The Musée du Nouveau Monde evokes the relations between La Rochelle and the Americas. The Musée des Beaux-Arts maintains French and Rochelais chef-d'oeuvres alike from the XVll to XlX century.
From La Rochelle you can visit Ile de Ré by way of a 2.9 kilometer bridge (since 1989). Ile de Ré is 85.3 km² and attracts vacationers from all over France and Europe for its beaches, pleasant climate and pristine natural beauty. The postcard image imprinted in one one's mind of this island, after even a short stay, is that of the white washed house with its blue or green shutters bordered by the wild Rose Trémiere, that grows like a weed almost anywhere even from the cracks of village walls to a height of at least one meter. Since the Middle Ages wine and salt are the principal exports. The island figures into the past history of La Rochelle as the advanced look out post for protecting the city's interests. Following the principal road, which spans the length of the island, the traveler can appreciate the many different phases of the island's history. Next to Rivedoux Plage is the Fort de la Prée, built in 1625 out of the turmoil between Catholics and Protestants. The stones in its construction were taken directly from the nearby Abbey Cisterciennes des Châteliers (Xll century) of which the ruins are a reminder of a long list of casualties of war left by the English in the wake of the 100 Years War. Further along the route is La Flotte, a picturesque little fishing village that keeps its "small town" pace as it did 200 years ago. 4 Kilometers further away is Saint-Martin-de-Ré. Originally conceived as a citadel, by the famous French military engineer - Vauban - in the XVll century, to protect the then new military port of Rochefort on the mainland. Loix is a peninsula jutting off to the north that was once an island only to be re-attached in the XlX century by the forces of nature. Here the production of salt from the marshes continues as it always has. The village still has its windmill that operates by the ebb and flow of the sea. Heading towards the tip of the island at its narrowest point is the Fier d'Ars, a veritable inland sea where is found the natural reserve of Lillean-des-Niges, created in 1980. At the very end of the island are the two lighthouses of La Pointe des Baleines. Since 1854, the 57.10 meter tall Phare des Baleines dominates the seascape. Alongside it is its smaller but much older brother - the Tour Fanal des Baleines, dating from the XVll century and thus ranking it as one of the oldest lighthouses in France. Returning to the mainland, south of La Rochelle, is Châtelaillon, fortress in the Xll century now the quick get-away for the Rochelais for an afternoon of fun in the sun; or you can always try your hand at games of chance in the casino. Following the route southward, one will notice a zone of marshes where stands a natural reserve welcoming numerous migratory and sedentary birds. Fouras lies on a peninsula and is a beach as well as a chateau. You can still see the dungeon from the XV century and a string of six forts (Aiguille, Lapointe, Vergeroux, Lupin, Peu and Chaignaud). Fouras is also a point of embarkation for the charming Ile d'Aix. Unlike Ile de Ré, Ile d'Aix has no bridge linking it to the mainland…you take the boat. Furthermore, once on shore the only means of transportation is by bicycle or your own two feet. Taking in the peaceful splendors of the island, you will soon appreciate why there is no rush to build a bridge that could disturb the serenity of this little crescent shaped gem. The island was the site of a Xl century Benedictine monastery. 800 Years later the island saw the construction of fortifications, of which Fort Liédot was overseen by Napoleon in1808. The scourge of Europe, the Emperor of the French, Napoleon spent his last days on French soil here (July 12-15, 1815) before boarding the Bellerophon for the bleak and distant shores of his island prison - Saint Helena. For Napoleon enthusiasts or just the curious, there is a little museum transformed from the house where which Napoleon stayed containing Napoleonic artifacts. Ile d'Aix is most of all a trekker's paradise. Spend the afternoon in discovering the many niches hidden in the evergreen or take a stroll along the cliffs. When tired, picnic on one of the many secluded beach alcoves. Back on the continent, following the inland flow of the Charente river, is Rochefort, established in XVll century as a great military port and arsenal. The Corderie is an impressive building, especially in its length - 373 meters long! The dimensions of the building are reasonable when one recognizes that here housed the rope making factory for the French fleet. It is now a science and culture center. Other buildings evoke the city's past relationship with the navy : old powder magazines, the Préfecture Maritime and the Porte du Soleil (entrance to the arsenal). The vessel that Lafayette sailed on to the aid of the American colonists - the Hermione, is presently being reconstructed from scratch based on historical descriptions and traditional methods. A naval museum displaying model ships is inside the Hôtel des Seigneurs de Cheusses. In the heart of the city can be found an assortment of impressive monuments : the Hôtel de Ville; the fountain in the Place Colbert, both from the XVlll century; the church Saint-Louis and the deceptively ordinary house of the famous French writer - Pierre Loti. Leaving Rochefort and looking high above the horizon you will notice a matrix of steel girders spanning the Charente - the Pont du Martou. Although now inactive, this transporter bridge was an engineering marvel in its day. Built in 1900, it was capable of raising itself 50 meters high when a ship approached. It is the last of its kind in France and thus classed as a Monument Historique (since 1976). To the south of Rochefort are great expanses of marshland where lies the fortified town of Brouage. A walled in town, it also was a port that was progressively invaded by silt build up in XVll century. A lone silhouette standing amidst the marshes is the Romanesque dungeon of the Tour de Broue. Further to the coast is the town of Marennes. Its Gothic bell tower dominates to give full view of the large oyster farms where the famous oysters of Marennes are raised. Between the continent and the Ile d'Oléron is the Fort du Chapus. Minuscule in size it has faithfully guarded the passage since the XVll century. The Ile d'Oléron is the largest of the French
metropolitan islands, second only to Corsica. Since 1966 a bridge connects the island to
the mainland thus facilitating the enormous quantity of tourists that come to see what
makes this island so special. What attracts the eye may be the wide swath of sandy
beaches, the coniferous forests, the old salt marshes converted to oyster farms, the many
vineyards and the little villages strewn with flowering Mimosas and Oleanders. Ile
d'Oléron is like all its other island neighbors - vestiges of the early warning defense
system for the port of Rochefort. The island is dotted with fortifications from the XVll
to XlX centuries and even during the Second World War. At the entrance of the island, is
the XVll century citadel - the Château d'Oléron. Recently restored, it is surrounded by
oyster farms. In the heart of the citadel is a well conserved and elegant Renaissance
fountain. Standing out from the middle of vineyards is the capital of Saint-Pierre, where
lies Pierre Loti in the garden of the Maison des Aïeules. The oval Fort Boyard stands as
the lone sentinel protecting the seaway between the islands of Oléron and Aix and the
entrance to Rochefort and the estuary of the Charente river. Begun in 1804, the island
fort was tardy in its completion in 1854 and as a consequence was rendered prostrate by
new military technologies. Fort Boyard entered the anals of military history as one of the
great "might have been's". Directly across on the island is Boyardville,
benefiting from an animated pleasure port as well as a 8 km. long beach. More to the
interior is Saint-Georges. It offers all the charms of a village grouped around a market
square and a Romanesque church. Further to the north is Saint-Denis, popular vacation spot
for its lovely beaches. At the tip of the island is the 50 m. high lighthouse Phare de
Chassiron, built in 1836. From its summit one can visualize all of Ile d'Oléron, La
Rochelle and the islands of Aix and Ré. The western face of the island is known as the
"Côte Sauvage", not to be confused with the other "Côte Sauvage"
along the Bordelais coast. In keeping with its namesake, it has remained inhospitable only
until recently. This part of the coastline is carpeted with forests. The village of
Saint-Trojan is nestled in the greenery and as a result possesses a unique micro-climate
offering the visitor a most pleasurable time. Philippe was born in France, he got his degree at the Rutgers University in the USA. He has returned to France where he is writing, traveling and writing again. This is his Internet writing debut. |
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