Number 3

Index

American in Cognac, a letter from America by Mike Thomas

In the last article, I wrote about Ragnaud-Sabourin, and the fine products made by "the ladies of cognac". I reminisced about visits to the property, and the kindness with which I was always treated.

Just down the road, in Bouteville, one will find the property of Paul Giraud. I last visited the property on March 3, 1997. The present owner is Paul-Jean Giraud, who took over from his father when the latter passed away in 1996. I can hardly contain my enthusiasm when I talk about the cognacs of Paul Giraud. They are the only cognacs that can compare to those of Ragnaud-Sabourin. I first saw the cognacs of Paul Giraud in Caves Auge in Paris, and made a note to visit the property on my next trip to the region. I actually didn’t have to go to Bouteville to sample the cognacs of Paul Giraud the first time-he came to me!

Each November, at Porte de Champeret in Paris, there is a trade fair of winegrowers, which is open to the public. Growers from all over France rent a table in the exhibition hall to display their wares and sell them. Upon paying a small admission fee, one is given a glass that they are to carry around to sample the wines. What a bargain! One of the things I like about the French is their pursuit of buying wines, cheeses, and spirits directly from the producer. Generally they get a better price than buying at a traditional outlet, and they also have the chance to buy product that is often not available from their local merchant.

Upon paying admission, one is given a listing of producers (there are nearly 600 of them so you need a list to know exactly who is there). In my case, I set out to find several cognac and armagnac producers that were present. First on my list was Paul Giraud. I had read an article about Paul Giraud cognacs, and about their wonderful chais which were supposed to be one of the reasons for the fine product. In the article, it talked about Très Rare, which is his top product.

When I finally found Monsieur Giraud’s table, I was eager to try the Très Rare. Now you have to realize that when 20,000 people descend on an expo like this, many of them want to sample the most expensive products, without even a thought of making a purchase. I told Monsieur Giraud that I would like to try the Très Rare, and he suggested I might want to try some of his VSOP. I convinced him that I was serious about possible purchase of the Très Rare, and poured some into my glass. It was a wonderful explosion of fire, vanilla, violets, brown sugar, some citrus, and I don’t know what else. It was absolutely delightful, and my face showed that I enjoyed it. I wound up buying 4 bottles (around 500ff each), as well as a bottle of Elegance to take home for my wife.

I spent quite a bit of time talking to Mr. Giraud, and told him of my visits to the region. He invited me to come and visit him on my next visit.

I wish I could tell you whom to contact to find out when the 1999 exhibition will take place, but I honestly do not know. I suspect that you can find information on this website that will assist you.

Some months later I was ready to once again pack up and go to Cognac. For once I called ahead and made appointments with some of the producers that I wanted to visit. One appointment was with Paul Giraud.

My wife and I drove southeast out of Cognac, to the town of Segonzac. From there, we followed Departmental Road D95 to Bouteville. As we followed the winding road, a rather large home loomed up around the corner. I noticed a small parking area on the left side of the road, and pulled into it-welcome to Chez Giraud.

The home, is predominately 19^th century Charente style, and has been in Monsieur Giraud’s family for nearly 250 years. At one corner of the home is a small building, which dates from the 18^th century, and was thought to have been part of the original family home.

Mr. Giraud lives in the house with his wife and children, using one of the rooms in the two-story home as his reception area and office.

On this particular day, Monsieur Giraud was out in one of the large buildings on his property in which his distillation stills are found. He stopped what he was doing, and greeted me as if I was a lifelong friend. This particular day he had time to spend with me, and offered to drive my wife and I over to the property that his father had purchased in 1960. His father wanted the property for the large house that was sitting there, so he would have a place where the laborers could live while they were working the vineyards. Along with the house, he got some absolutely marvelous cellars for aging cognac. These cellars are quite damp, and for some reason contribute greatly to the aging of the cognacs. They smelled damp and musty, but the aroma of sleeping cognac was still there.

Monsieur Giraud uses no water to dilute his cognacs, bottling them at their natural strength. He does not mix distillations from different years. What he produces is sort of "single vintage cognacs" I think I made up that expression, so please forgive me. Monsieur Giraud has a large stock. Thank goodness there will be enough left for me. He told me how many bottles he sells per year, but I can’t tell. I just know that after I stock up each year, there is plenty to go around for the rest of you-so go find it!

From Monsieur Giraud, I only buy Très Rare for myself. My wife likes his "Elegance", because it is less fiery. Monsieur Giraud recommends it for ladies. Luckily we are in France, and he can say that. I bought 4 bottles of Très Rare for myself, and a bottle of Elegance for my wife. This particular bottling of Très Rare was distilled in 1959, which meant it was 38 years old when I purchased it.

His market, at the time of this visit, was predominately Asia, with the US following closely behind. I know that his products are imported by an individual in Washington, DC, but I do not remember his name. I would hope that they are also available on the west coast. I have heard, but cannot confirm, that they are available in Chicago, from Sam’s.

I am completing an article that I began in early 1998, and while it is quite late, I am glad to finish it up. The cognacs of Paul Giraud are too wonderful to keep to myself. During 1998, my wife and I bought a new home in Georgia; I accepted a job in The Netherlands; and we moved here in September. I am able to find my favorite armagnac here in Amsterdam, and I have convinced my local wine merchant got get Ragnaud-Sabourin "Fontvielle", but I still have not found Paul Giraud Très Rare. I guess 3 out of 4 isn’t bad.

Last weekend my wife and I drove to Paris for 4 days, and it was wonderful. I had intended to have Monsieur Giraud ship 4 bottles to my hotel (and Madam Patricia Rief at Ragnaud-Sabourin to send 4 bottles of Fontvielle), but the trip was planned so quickly I did not have time to place the order. We will be going back to Paris in January or February, and you can be sure that I will order in plenty of time.

If I can talk my wife into making a trip to Cognac, then I can pick it up myself! By the way, several people have inquired about the escorted trip I had planned for 1998. The trip never materialized since there was not enough interest. If there are those of you who would like to accompany me on such a trip in 1999, please let me know.

Thank you for the kind messages that many of you sent to me. I am not a writer, and I know that. I do love cognac, and enjoy passing along my thoughts about the spirit and the region. If you have the chance, this region is one that you should visit. Not only will you be able to sample and buy the finest eau-de-vie in the world; you will enjoy some fine cuisine. Where else but in Cognac can you enjoy a plate of 75 escargot for the equivalent of $15. But that is another story.

Best wishes for a wonderful holiday season, and I hope to do a better job of posting articles in 1999. 

22 March 2001